GLOSSARY

Appliqué

A type of patchwork where a piece of fabric is cut into a design and sewn on a garment by hand or machine embroidery - a great way of using fabric offcuts. 

 

Block Print

A traditional technique still practiced in some parts of India where patterns, shapes and designs are hand carved by artisans into a wooden block. Natural pigments are then applied on the raised surfaces of the block and pressed onto the fabric to create a unique design. Although there are many types of block printing depending on the area and heritage of the craftspeople, we work with two specialist block printers based in Kutch and Jaipur and regularly use the two following techniques:

Ajrakh uses dye to print directly onto the fabric using four steps: block printing, dyeing, washing and drying.
Bagru involves applying mud on the cloth to ‘resist’ the dye before the dyeing and washing is done. This process is repeated for each colour and is a time intensive and highly skilled process. 

 

Garment Dye

Instead of dyeing the fabric directly which uses more water, garments are first sewn and then dipped in the dye bath. This may result in slight colour variations, especially where the sewing thread and fabric are made of different yarns. 

 

Hand embroidery

Hand embroidery is used to decorate fabric using a needle and thread.  Our signature ‘Cultivating Hands’ logo is stitched by hand highlighting the importance we place on craftsmanship.

 

Hand weaving 

We work with local weaving communities to create our own hand-loomed cloth. Our artisan weavers transform our farmed cotton fibres into textiles designed specifically for our own collections. Our textile developments include hand woven flannels, selvedge denim, and textured khadi slub, recreating traditional weaves but using long staple yarn for greater durability and quality. Our extra long staple cotton is woven into finest quality poplin and lightweight cotton voile. 

 

Ikat 

Ikat is a dyeing technique originating from Indonesia and using tie-dyeing to prevent some parts of the yarn from absorbing the pigments. The yarn is then meticulously woven by hand to create rhythmic patterns, most commonly in chevron and diamond designs. Our ikat textiles are woven locally as well as in Andhra Pradesh depending on the complexity of the design.

 

Kantha 

A traditional form of hand stitching and quilting using a running stitch.

 

Khadi 

Made from hand-spun cotton fibre which is then hand-woven into an artisanal textile with its own unique characteristics. 

 

Mineral Dye

A natural dyeing process using minerals found in nature. It has a lower impact on the environment as it uses less water and energy. Mineral colours are lighter than plant dyes yet have a better resistance to washing, perspiration and light. Variations and irregularities give a unique, worn-in look.

 

Natural Indigo

Indigo has a long history that goes back more than 5,000 years in the Indus valley which is now part of Pakistan and Northwest India. The blue pigments are extracted from a legume known as Indigofera Tinctoria which are also used on our farms in Tamil Nadu as green manure to capture atmospheric nitrogen into the soil and improve its condition. We prepare our own dye vats using locally sourced dyes.

 

Plant Dye

Plant pigments are extracted from roots, leaves, flowers, fruits, seeds and bark to create vibrant, natural dyes. Works best on natural fibres such as cotton, wool, hemp, linen and silk and requires delicate care. Variation on the surface of the fabric is a natural part of the process. We also use plant dyes to overdye old season prints to add a new look. Plant dyeing is done locally in Erode, as well as in Jaipur and Kutch. The plants are grown locally.

 

Organic Cotton

Grown without using harmful chemicals. We buy GOTS certified organic cotton yarn from local spinners and weave our own cloth. 

 

Patchwork

We sew offcuts and previous seasons’ fabrics into a larger garment design to prevent waste and add a unique character to our pieces. Patchwork can also be employed to hide holes or signs of wear and tear and give garments a longer life. 

 

Recycled Cotton

Made from our production waste such as fabric scraps which are sorted by colour, shredded and turned into recycled yarn. Our extra-long staple cotton waste can be recycled into good quality, durable cotton which we use to make T-shirts. We limit our production waste as much as possible.

 

Regenerative Cotton

Regenerative cotton is grown using farming practices that restore the quality and health of the soil, water, air, ecosystems, and biodiversity. Compared to organic agriculture that focuses mainly on avoiding unhealthy chemicals, regenerative agriculture has many added advantages, from carbon sequestration to crop and flood resilience. The practice is rooted in self-sustained traditional methods of farming including low tilling, multicropping and crop rotation. We grow our cotton alongside seven other crops to help return nutrients to depleted soils. Our cotton seeds are harvested each season to be replanted the next. Like organic farming, we don’t use harmful chemicals, and we use our own cows to create our own manure and fertiliser recipes that are part of the regenerative cycle.